Of all the neighbourhoods we’ve visited in Seoul, Ikseondong is the prettiest by far and is hands down our favourite.
It’s centrally-located and easily accessible via the Jongo 3-ga station on Lines 1, 3 and 5 of the subway. After exiting the train, head over to Exit 4, ride the escalator up, cross the road and you’re there.
Unlike the hilly Bukchon Hanok Village just a few subway stops away, Ikseondong is completely flat. Making it a comfortable choice if you’re a senior or travelling with one.
Our mid-century milestone is rapidly approaching and we found the steep slopes of Bukchon somewhat challenging. We had to occasionally stop to catch our breaths, something that we didn’t have to do at Ikseondong.
Ikseondong Hanok Village is small and compact, comprising a network of narrow alleys that crisscross numerous restaurants, teahouses, cafés and quaint little shops.
Restored wooden hanoks with their characteristic tiled roofs can be found throughout the neighbourhood, interspersed with modern and playful decorations.
We enjoyed our time there so much that we visited it twice during our ten days in Seoul — once during a busy weekday, and then again on an even busier weekend.
It was clearly a popular destination for both international tourists and locals alike. There were many places that caught our attention, and here are some of the memorable places that we visited.
Tteuran Teahouse
Tteuran was the main reason why I added Ikseondong to our travel itinerary. In fact, it was the first place that I wanted to visit on our first full day in Seoul.
From photos that I’d seen on websites and IG, it seemed like the perfect place to admire the unique architecture and interior decor of traditional Korean hanoks. Especially the floor seating and accompanying low tables.
It was also a good opportunity for us to try out some local drinks, such as the heart-warming Jujube tea and the fermented Omija tea. As well as traditional snacks like yakgwa and dried stuffed persimmons.
The ambience was so welcoming and comfortable that we ended up spending several hours there, soaking up the serene atmosphere.
Cheese Industry
Mechanical cows, with moving internal gears visible through their transparent skin, were the reason why I stopped at the Cheese Industry.
I don’t know which came first.
Did the name of the shop spark the creation of the robotic farm animals? Or did the idea of having clockwork bovines inspire its name? Either way, it was a slam dunk from a marketing perspective.
Cows weren’t the only attraction, because the café offered the most perfect interpretation of cheesecakes that I’ve ever seen.
Their Emmental and Gouda cheese cakes were shaped to resemble entire cheese wheels, complete with realistic-looking outer rinds.
The Brie cheese cake was wrapped in cheese cloth, secured with rough twine and sat in a rustic metal can. It gave the impression of a soft and fluffy dessert which, unfortunately, we didn’t get to try.
Because, as you would expect, the place was extremely popular and had a waiting list that was more than an hour long.
Mil Toast
After abandoning our first choice, we wandered around and found ourselves at Mil Toast. It also had a queue, but it was a short one which cleared in no time at all.
We had some time to burn before the Lotus Lantern Parade started, and parked ourselves in the bright and airy space to indulge in sweet treats and drinks.
Cheesecake was still on my mind and I ended up ordering a blueberry version and French toast brûlée with my iced almond mocha.
The Wife choose a strawberry tea, which turned out to be one of the best (non-alcoholic) drinks we had in Seoul. It shouldn’t have been a surprise though, since South Korea is home to some of the best strawberries in the world.
Teterot Salon
If you’re a big fan of traditional hanboks but find them too complicated for everyday wear, then Teterot Salon might just have the solution for you.
Their designs are unmistakably Korean, with design elements that borrow heavily from the national dress. Long and flowing skirts in colourful hues are paired with simple cross-tied blouses to evoke a timeless sense of elegance.
Flowers adorn all corners of the beautifully decorated boutique, including an impressive inverted garden hanging from the ceiling. You might think that the clothes would cost a bomb, but prices were surprisingly reasonable.
Even though The Wife eventually left empty-handed, she spent considerable time happily going through their entire collection.
Banjoo Iksun
I’m generally wary of fusion food, but I was glad that it didn’t stop us from stepping into the open and light-filled courtyard of Banjoo Iksun.
Besides having a well-curated list of nine interesting makgeollis, it also featured a focused menu of nine food items that combined the best of Korean and Italian cuisine.
We thoroughly enjoyed our Octopus Carpaccio (perilla oil vinaigrette, kimchi) and Gnocchi (perilla leaf cream, bacon, shallot pickle). Given sufficient stomach capacity, we would have happily ordered every single item on the menu.
Location
I’ve pinned all the locations above in a public Google Maps list, in case you’re interested to check them out. Besides these places, I’m sure you’ll find many more that will tickle your fancy, and also your taste buds.
If you haven’t visited it yet, do set aside a few hours to wander around the jinjja yeppeuda alleys of Ikseondong Hanok Village. I’m quite sure you won’t be disappointed.
