Samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup, is easily one of our favourite Korean dishes. It’s great on cold, rainy days and even better when we’re feeling under the weather.
Whenever we visit Seoul, we make it a point to have samgyetang at least once, if not twice. In our most recent itinerary, I had already penned in return visits to both Tosokchon near Gyeongbokgung station, and Jang An near City Hall station.
But before we actually made it to either of them, we walked past Baek Nyeon Baekse (백년토종삼계탕), a samgyetang restaurant that was just down the road from our hotel in Hongdae.
It sported a respectable rating of 4.27⭐/5 on Naver Maps, and since we were feeling adventurous that day, we decided to give it a try. After all, that was how we serendipitously stumbled across Jang An during our previous trip, and it turned out great.
Even though we were there well before lunchtime, it was already bustling with customers. A burly ajumma gestured us to our seats and handed us their short and sweet menu. It featured seven variations of samgyetang, together with other ginseng and chicken dishes.
Two specific items were recommended: Cultivated Ginseng Chicken Soup and Fried Ginseng. We took the restaurant at their word and ordered both, as well as the Ginseng Soup with Perilla Seeds.
A plate of green chillies, onion slices and raw garlic was placed on our table, together with small dishes of samjang and dipping salt. A small plastic-wrapped bucket was provided, presumably for us to dispose of any chicken bones.
Two types of kimchi, cabbage and radish, were self service from communal jars covered in cling film. As were our stainless steel cutlery, which were stored in drawers in every table.
It was all very no-frills and geared towards speedy turnover. Which became evident soon after, when a huge influx of customers walked through the front door.
We were suddenly surrounded by a busload full of tourists from Thailand. They were a diverse group and consisted of hardy old folks, middle-aged parents with their young children and fashionable young adults.
Their Thai tour guide spoke Korean and seemed very familiar with the restaurant staff. She quickly seated everybody and efficiently ordered lunch.
Just as we thought that things would settle down, another busload of tourists entered, this time from China. Again, they had a Korean-speaking guide, who also quickly shepherded her entire entourage.
It was quite the party, with boisterous conversation in different languages bouncing off the walls. We didn’t mind it actually, and found it quite entertaining, as it added to the atmosphere in the casual eatery.
Stone bowls of bubbling hot samgyetang left the kitchen in a continuous wave, and made their way to our tables. Unsurprisingly, everyone was served the same item, since it was the signature item of the restaurant.
The garnish of finely-shredded ginseng was a nice touch, emphasising the key ingredient used to make the soup. Adding to the perceived fanciness was the whole abalone, served on its half shell.
In most Asian cuisine, abalone is considered a delicacy. Seeing an entire piece, and not a small one at that, definitely raised the allure of the dish.
The soup itself was rich and heartwarming, with a thick mouthfeel imparted from the hours and hours of simmering. Like many healthy soups in Korea, seasoning was kept to a minimum to allow the natural flavours to shine through. And shine through they did.
Each bowl included an entire chicken stuffed with glutinous rice, with meat that was fall-off-the-bone tender. It was a perfect one-pot meal ideal for elderly folks with fragile teeth.
In case you’re wondering, yes, that includes us.
When our fried ginseng arrived, we were surprised at the portion size. It was much more substantial that what the photo in the menu had suggested. A side of syrupy sweet sauce was served on the side, which I assumed was oligosaccharide, a common sweetener in Korea.
When I took the first bite, it was not at what I expected. Instead of the characteristic woody ginseng taste, it was fresh and light, almost like burdock but softer and less earthy. It was quite fun to munch on, and definitely worth trying at least once.
Our other bowl of samgyetang, the one with perilla seeds, was also a new experience for us. Instead of clear broth, it was cloudy and opaque. Heaps of perilla seed powder must have been dumped into the soup, giving it a creamy texture and a nutty, earthy flavour profile.
We had mistakenly assumed that it would taste like perilla leaf i.e. kkaennip (깻잎), but it was nowhere close. The Wife became instantly obsessed with it and embarked on a mission to hunt down deulkkaegaru (들깨가루). Two big packets were acquired, courtesy of Lotte Mart.
When we stepped out of Baek Nyeon Baekse, we knew that on our next visit to Seoul, a return visit to our newly-crowned #1 samgyetang restaurant was a given.
The perilla seed samgyetang would be a definite repeat order, and we’d maybe try the most expensive “Century Ginseng Chicken Soup” but will probably skip the fried ginseng.
Which means that the former champion, Jang An (장안삼계탕), has been pushed down to the #2 spot.
Resulting in a knock-on effect of relegating Tosokchon (토속촌 삼계탕), a popular choice among tourists, down to #3.
And until our next flight to Seoul is booked, whenever the craving for samgyetang strikes us, there’s always Jang Won in Singapore.
Seoul Spring 2023
Trip planning: Hansik, sijang and hanok (Seoul Spring 2023)
Our flights are booked, hotel rooms are reserved and all that’s left is to count down to the day that we finally take to the skies again.
Up in the air again with Singapore Airlines in Business class
For our very first post-pandemic flight, we redeemed 208,000 KrisFlyer miles for a pair of Business class return tickets to Seoul.
Ryse Hotel is right in the heart of bustling Hongdae
During our previous trips to Seoul, we stayed in Myeongdong, Dongdaemun and City Hall. This time, I decided to try a new neighbourhood in the Western part of Seoul.
Comforting pork soup at Donsubaek for our first meal in Seoul
After a six plus hour flight and faced with an unexpected drop in temperature, a piping hot bowl of pork soup really hit the spot.
Masan Seafood and their ugly delicious agujjim
Monkfish may possibly be the ugliest fish in the world, but it also happens to be one of the most delicious.
A relaxing afternoon interlude at Tteuran Teahouse in Ikseondong
As you step through the heavy wooden doors, you can’t help but feel a sense of serenity sweep over your entire body.
For jeongmal delizioso Korean fusion food, head to Banjoo Iksun
Beautifully browned potato dumplings and generous chunks of smoky bacon floated on a pool of vibrantly green perilla leaf cream.
Traditional Korean rice cakes and pour over coffee for breakfast
Rice is a staple in many Asian countries. Besides being the main source of carbohydrates, it’s also used to make different types of sweets.
Lotus Lantern Festival at Gwanghwamun Square
The lantern displays were just one component of the week-long festival leading up to the Buddha’s birthday celebration, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
When Korean executives need a quick meal, Hanilkwan is where they go
Bibimbap is a dish that requires audience participation, and it’s always fun to mix all the ingredients into a beautiful mess.
Strawberry tea and desserts at bright and breezy Mil Toast
The Wife went with a hot Strawberry Tea, not knowing exactly what to expect but confident that it was a good choice. South Korea was, after all, famous for their high quality strawberries.
Watching the Lotus Lantern Parade from our seats at Jongno 3-ga
You know that an event is a huge deal when a 3km stretch of road, right in the heart of a major city, is shut down for several hours on a busy Saturday night.
Bus ride to Mangwon Market for our Korean street food fix
Dessert was in the form of spicy eomuk skewers, from the very first stall we saw when entering the market. Just look at that fiery and luscious sauce!
The hanjeongsik at Hangaram was easily our best meal in Seoul
Despite being mentally prepared for the large number of incoming items, when the food started arriving, we were hopelessly overwhelmed by the non-stop cascade of dishes.
Mall hopping at The Hyundai Seoul and Starfield Coex
Given a choice between hiking up a mountain or wandering around an airconditioned mall, I choose the latter. Any time of the day, any day of the week, any week of the year.
Jeon and makgeolli at John Makgeolliano in Yeonnamdong
One mission of our recent vacation in Seoul was to drink as much makgeolli as possible. And since jeon is the perfect accompaniment to makgeolli, we found an interesting place to have both.
Wandering the jinjja yeppeuda alleys of Ikseondong Hanok Village
Of all the neighbourhoods we’ve been to in Seoul, Ikseondong is the prettiest by far. Here are five memorable places that we visited.
There’s a reason why Myeongdong Kyoja is so popular
After mixing everything into a beautiful mess and taking in a big mouthful, the first thing that hit me was a pleasant nuttiness, followed by deep umami. The noodles were firm and chewy, releasing flavour with every bite.
From now on, Novotel Dongdaemun is where we’ll stay in Seoul
Five months before check-in, I booked a 53sqm Residence Deluxe Room on a fully flexible rate. Our four night stay in May had an average daily rate of ₩256,000.
The Wife walked into Pleats Mama and almost didn’t make it out
I could tell that she was very pleased with her purchases, and I was pleased that she was pleased.
The complete Hanwoo K-BBQ experience at Majang Meat Market
Our 422g platter with four different cuts of Grade 1++(9) Korean beef cost ₩71,000 at the butcher’s shop. The total bill after adding the table charge, drinks and transport came up to only ₩89,800.
Buying African beans from Blue Bottle Coffee in Samcheongdong
A wide selection was on display, together with their origins, tasting notes and prices. They were sold in unusually large 300gm bags, with blends going for ₩25,000 and single-origins for ₩35,000.
Our very first taste of ganjang gejang, courtesy of Keun Giwajip
I found out the hard way that ganjang gejang is an acquired taste. One that, unfortunately, I wasn’t able to acquire.
Strolling down Gyeongdong Market for a truly local sijang experience
One thing we like to do when visiting a foreign city is to explore grocery stores and traditional markets. It gives us a chance to glimpse into the lives of people going about their day-to-day activities.
The tragic fate of the jjukkumi at Najeongsun Halmae
Somewhere in the Yongdu-dong neighbourhood, within the Dongdaemun-gu district, a brass octopus stands at attention, solemnly saluting all who walk past.
Jeolla-do grilled eel two ways at Songgang Freshwater Eel
In South Korea, jang-eo (장어) is considered a health food that boosts energy, and is especially popular during the hot summer months.
Shopping for souvenirs at Emart Cheonggyecheon
Grocery shopping is probably not on the minds of most tourists. But coming from a non-agricultural country like Singapore, the opportunity to bring home fresh, tasty and cheap produce was simply too good to miss.
Last minute dash for Goraesa Eomuk just before boarding our flight
The Wife had a look in her eyes that hinted that she was thinking about buying one of everything. But she managed to restrain her impulses and only picked out three pieces.
Our 10 day Seoul itinerary and how much we spent
We spent a total of ₩5,450,000 for our entire trip. Here’s the cost breakdown by flight, hotel, food & drink, shopping, transport and other travel-related expenses.
And just like that, The Wife turned into a kkaennip addict
I can still remember the precise moment that it happened. We were having dinner at Hanilkwan and one of our banchan was a simple salad of shredded cabbage and kkaennip, tossed in a light vinaigrette.
StarHub Giga data roaming works like a charm
We used gigaRoam in Seoul and had no issues with mobile data access throughout our entire trip. It was easy to buy, seamless to activate and convenient to extend, making it the default choice for our future travels.
Lotte Mart Seoul Station is a Korean snack food paradise
Our extensive haul only lasted us a few weeks. We could have stretched it out a bit longer, but when faced with a convenient stockpile of addictive Korean snacks, the first thing that goes out the window is self-control.
