The last flight we took was from Seoul to Singapore, way back in November 2019. Since then, our passports have been peacefully hibernating in our drawer. But that’s all set to change soon, because we’re finally heading overseas again!
Coincidentally, our next flight will be from Singapore to Seoul, where we’ll be spending 10 relaxing days eating, exploring and shopping. My initial idea was to head over to Japan for our first post-pandemic vacation, but flights were difficult (and expensive) to secure.
Plus I figured that it would probably take another year before Japan tourism normalises, and they get used to hordes of visitors again. So, while it’s not on the cards for this year, we’ll most likely head there in the Spring or Autumn of 2024.
We’ve been to Seoul twice in the past. Our first trip there was in the Autumn of 2016, where had a wonderful time. Our second one in the Autumn of 2019, unfortunately, wasn’t so great. We fell horribly sick soon after we landed, and spent most of our time recuperating in the hotel room.
It wasn’t a complete write-off though, as we managed to recover sufficiently to enjoy some decent meals, visit a farmers market just outside our hotel and even catch the exuberant Cookin’ Nanta show at Myeongdong Theatre.
Oh, that was also when we got hooked on the crazy chaos that is Running Man, which we still watch to this day. It’s not as entertaining as before, when the cast members were younger and could handle the punishing name tag races, but it’s still fun to watch.
Running Man was also our gateway drug into the fascinating world of Korean variety shows such as I Live Alone, Mom’s Diary, Men on a Mission and numerous food specials helmed by Paik Jong Won. Together with a steady diet of intriguing K-dramas, catchy K-pop and entertaining K-Youtubers, our interest in all things Korean have remained high over the years.
Seoul is a huge and sprawling city and we decided to stay in two different neighbourhoods this time: Hongdae in the West and Dongdaemun in the East. While the Seoul metro system is excellent and can get us everywhere from just one home base, I thought it’d be nice to have a change of scenery.
Hansik (한식)
The main focus of our upcoming trip will be to stuff our faces with as much Korean food (hansik) as humanly possible. Our stomach capacities are nowhere near the legendary Tzuyang, but we’re definitely going to push our limits.
There are so many dishes that we want to eat. Including familiar favourites like samgyetang and kalguksu, as well as new dishes that we’ve yet to try, like ganjang gejang and gopchang. And of course, we’re also looking forward to the ubiquitous banchan and kimchi.
Perhaps the most visually impressive meal we’ll have in Seoul this time will be the hanjeongsik, or traditional Korean table. After you order, they’ll start placing all sorts of dishes on the table, ranging from soups, meats, stews, seafood, rice and vegetables.
We have numerous options to choose from, but I decided to go with the mid-range Omiga (4.21⭐/5 on Naver Maps). It’s a short 5 minute walk from the Apgujeong Line 3 metro station and three stops away from Goto Mall, where The Wife can do some clothes shopping before dinner.
Samgyetang is one of our favourite Korean dishes and while we can find it in restaurants in Singapore, they don’t quite match up to the ones in Korea. It also holds sentimental value for us, because the heartwarming comfort food helped us recover from our serious bout of flu.
Again, there are so many choices available in Seoul, including the famous Tosokchon (4.33⭐). But the one that’s close to our hearts is Jang An (4.38⭐) near City Hall, which nursed us back to health when we were at our lowest and feeling utterly miserable. It would be nice to say annyeonghaseyo again to the ajummas and halmonis working there.
The most adventurous item that we’ll try during this trip is ganjang gejang, or raw crab marinated in soy sauce. We’re big fans of crab but the idea of chomping down on an entire uncooked crab just seems a bit daunting to us.
But it’s one of those iconic Korean dishes that we simply have to try at least once. To minimise the risk of a massive protest by our intestinal tracts, we decided to adopt two preventive measures.
One, our restaurant of choice will be Keunkiwajip (4.35⭐) near Anguk. It has one Michelin star and popular with tourists, which presumably means that the ganjang gejang served there is safe for delicate foreign stomachs like ours.
Two, we’ll only go there two days before we fly back. That way, if the worst happens, we only have to sacrifice the tail-end of our vacation. And also, having an additional one day recovery time means not having to spend most our flight home stuck in an airplane toilet.
The above is just a small sample of the hansik that we’re planning to binge on, with a more complete list given below. There’s a good chance that we’re not going to eat everything, but we’re going to keep going until we can’t anymore.
- Dakgalbi (Yoogane)
- Samgyetang (Jang An, Tosokchon)
- Hanwoo (Gogisang, Majang Market)
- Tteokbokki, Hotteok (Mangwon Market)
- Injeolmi, Yakgwa (Tteuran, Cha-teul)
- Grilled Eel (Songgang)
- Gopchang, Daechang (Nollan)
- Jeon, Makgeolli (John Makgeolliano)
- King Crab, Abalone (Noryangjin Market)
- Bindaetteok, Bibimbap (Gwangjang Market)
- Hanjeongsik (Omiga)
- Kalguksu, Mandu (Myeongdong Kyoja)
- Ganjang Gejang (Keunkiwajip)
- Jjajangmyeon, Jjamppong, Tangsuyuk (Hongkong 0410)
Sijang (시장)
So far, the only traditional market (sijang) we’ve visited in Seoul is Gwangjang Market. This time we plan to significantly expand our boundaries and aim to hit five of them.
After Gwangjang, Mangwon Market is probably the next well-known market for tourists, and happens to be just next to Hongdae, where we’ll be staying.
There are tonnes of small local shops selling all sorts of street foods like bbalgan eomuk (red sauce fish cake), shi at hotteok (seed pancake), tteokbokki (spicy rice cake), saeu/dak gangjung (fried shrimp/chicken), gochu twigim (deep-fried chilli).
We’re basically going to follow in the footsteps of Steven Lim (Worth It) and his friends in the video below, eating as much of the market as we can. Well, everything except the fermented skate.
One traditional market that’s not as well known is the Gyeongdong Market, just beside the Jegidong Line 1 metro station. It’s frequented mainly by locals and recognised as the place to buy ginseng and herbal medicine.
Koreans take their ginseng seriously and we actually bought some at a farmers market during our previous trip. The fresh ones are surprisingly affordable and were a great addition to homecooked soups. We’ll definitely buy some home again this time round.
There’s also the Cheongnyangni Fruit & Vegetable Market next door, and our entire morning will probably be spent wandering around the sprawling market compound.
Two other markets that we’ll be going to are Noryangjin and Majang. Of the pair, Noryangjin is the more famous cousin and has recently moved into a newer and cleaner building.
The modus operandi at Noryangjin Fish Market is to buy the fresh seafood from the vendors, and then get it cooked (for a fee) at the restaurants upstairs. I’ve been reading mixed reviews online though, with some visitors going away feeling ripped off.
To be honest, I’m a bit apprehensive about the whole experience, especially since prices are opaque and bargaining seems to be essential. But I guess even if we get hit with a tourist markup, the price there for some king crab and abalone might still be worth it. Especially given how expensive they are in Singapore.
The situation at Majang Meat Market seems less chaotic with more transparent pricing, although the buy-at-vendor-cook-at-restaurant arrangement remains the same. Apparently, you can get a good Hanwoo BBQ meal for 30% less compared to restaurants in the city.
Getting there is a bit more tricky as the nearest metro station (Majang Line 5) is quite a distance away, and Google Maps is not great with walking directions in Seoul. Luckily, there’s Naver Maps to the rescue. We might even try catching a local bus there and significantly cut down our walk time.
Hanok (한옥)
There’s something serene and peaceful about the olden architecture in Korea, especially the wooden hanok buildings that can be found throughout the city. I’m particularly looking forward to strolling around the Ikseondong neighbourhood, home to artisanal shops and charming teahouses like Tteuran.
Likewise at the Bukchon Hanok Village, where we plan to spend the better part of the afternoon walking off our heavy lunch at Keunkiwajip admiring the architecture. The terrain there is somewhat steep, but should be manageable.
And after a few hours of walking, and potentially chalking up 10,000 steps, we’ll reward ourselves with tea and traditional Korean snacks at Cha-teul. Since it’s located near the upper section of Bukchon, beautiful views are a given.
The Wife is a big fan of makgeolli (Korean rice wine) and it just happens that there’s a makgeolli bar in Yeonnamdong, within walking distance from our hotel in Hongdae. What’s more fascinating is that John Makgeolliano is actually housed in a hanok, adding to the rustic hipster vibe.
I have to say that the name of the bar is also pretty cool too. Though if it were up to me, I would have gone with Jeon Makgeolliano instead.
Itinerary
Besides all the hansik, sijangs and hanoks, we’ll also be doing some sightseeing and shopping. The Hyundai Seoul looks quite impressive, as does the Starfield Library at the Coex Mall. There are also some nice parks, such as the Yeouido Hangang Park and Gyeongui Line Park.
On the day before we fly back, The Wife wants to see what she can buy home from the local supermarkets. We typically just go to the huge Lotte Mart at Seoul Station, but this time I’ve also included the flagship Emart Chonggyecheon near Dongmyo station for added variety.
So, there you have it, our maiden post-pandemic travel plan. The flights are booked and hotel rooms are reserved. All that’s left is to count down to the day that we finally take to the skies again.
Seoul Spring 2023
Up in the air again with Singapore Airlines in Business class
For our very first post-pandemic flight, we redeemed 208,000 KrisFlyer miles for a pair of Business class return tickets to Seoul.
Ryse Hotel is right in the heart of bustling Hongdae
During our previous trips to Seoul, we stayed in Myeongdong, Dongdaemun and City Hall. This time, I decided to try a new neighbourhood in the Western part of Seoul.
Comforting pork soup at Donsubaek for our first meal in Seoul
After a six plus hour flight and faced with an unexpected drop in temperature, a piping hot bowl of pork soup really hit the spot.
Masan Seafood and their ugly delicious agujjim
Monkfish may possibly be the ugliest fish in the world, but it also happens to be one of the most delicious.
A relaxing afternoon interlude at Tteuran Teahouse in Ikseondong
As you step through the heavy wooden doors, you can’t help but feel a sense of serenity sweep over your entire body.
For jeongmal delizioso Korean fusion food, head to Banjoo Iksun
Beautifully browned potato dumplings and generous chunks of smoky bacon floated on a pool of vibrantly green perilla leaf cream.
Traditional Korean rice cakes and pour over coffee for breakfast
Rice is a staple in many Asian countries. Besides being the main source of carbohydrates, it’s also used to make different types of sweets.
Lotus Lantern Festival at Gwanghwamun Square
The lantern displays were just one component of the week-long festival leading up to the Buddha’s birthday celebration, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Baek Nyeon Baekse just took the top spot in our samgyetang shortlist
Samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup, is easily one of our favourite Korean dishes. It’s great on cold, rainy days and even better when we’re feeling under the weather.
When Korean executives need a quick meal, Hanilkwan is where they go
Bibimbap is a dish that requires audience participation, and it’s always fun to mix all the ingredients into a beautiful mess.
Strawberry tea and desserts at bright and breezy Mil Toast
The Wife went with a hot Strawberry Tea, not knowing exactly what to expect but confident that it was a good choice. South Korea was, after all, famous for their high quality strawberries.
Watching the Lotus Lantern Parade from our seats at Jongno 3-ga
You know that an event is a huge deal when a 3km stretch of road, right in the heart of a major city, is shut down for several hours on a busy Saturday night.
Bus ride to Mangwon Market for our Korean street food fix
Dessert was in the form of spicy eomuk skewers, from the very first stall we saw when entering the market. Just look at that fiery and luscious sauce!
The hanjeongsik at Hangaram was easily our best meal in Seoul
Despite being mentally prepared for the large number of incoming items, when the food started arriving, we were hopelessly overwhelmed by the non-stop cascade of dishes.
Mall hopping at The Hyundai Seoul and Starfield Coex
Given a choice between hiking up a mountain or wandering around an airconditioned mall, I choose the latter. Any time of the day, any day of the week, any week of the year.
Jeon and makgeolli at John Makgeolliano in Yeonnamdong
One mission of our recent vacation in Seoul was to drink as much makgeolli as possible. And since jeon is the perfect accompaniment to makgeolli, we found an interesting place to have both.
Wandering the jinjja yeppeuda alleys of Ikseondong Hanok Village
Of all the neighbourhoods we’ve been to in Seoul, Ikseondong is the prettiest by far. Here are five memorable places that we visited.
There’s a reason why Myeongdong Kyoja is so popular
After mixing everything into a beautiful mess and taking in a big mouthful, the first thing that hit me was a pleasant nuttiness, followed by deep umami. The noodles were firm and chewy, releasing flavour with every bite.
From now on, Novotel Dongdaemun is where we’ll stay in Seoul
Five months before check-in, I booked a 53sqm Residence Deluxe Room on a fully flexible rate. Our four night stay in May had an average daily rate of ₩256,000.
The Wife walked into Pleats Mama and almost didn’t make it out
I could tell that she was very pleased with her purchases, and I was pleased that she was pleased.
The complete Hanwoo K-BBQ experience at Majang Meat Market
Our 422g platter with four different cuts of Grade 1++(9) Korean beef cost ₩71,000 at the butcher’s shop. The total bill after adding the table charge, drinks and transport came up to only ₩89,800.
Buying African beans from Blue Bottle Coffee in Samcheongdong
A wide selection was on display, together with their origins, tasting notes and prices. They were sold in unusually large 300gm bags, with blends going for ₩25,000 and single-origins for ₩35,000.
Our very first taste of ganjang gejang, courtesy of Keun Giwajip
I found out the hard way that ganjang gejang is an acquired taste. One that, unfortunately, I wasn’t able to acquire.
Strolling down Gyeongdong Market for a truly local sijang experience
One thing we like to do when visiting a foreign city is to explore grocery stores and traditional markets. It gives us a chance to glimpse into the lives of people going about their day-to-day activities.
The tragic fate of the jjukkumi at Najeongsun Halmae
Somewhere in the Yongdu-dong neighbourhood, within the Dongdaemun-gu district, a brass octopus stands at attention, solemnly saluting all who walk past.
Jeolla-do grilled eel two ways at Songgang Freshwater Eel
In South Korea, jang-eo (장어) is considered a health food that boosts energy, and is especially popular during the hot summer months.
Shopping for souvenirs at Emart Cheonggyecheon
Grocery shopping is probably not on the minds of most tourists. But coming from a non-agricultural country like Singapore, the opportunity to bring home fresh, tasty and cheap produce was simply too good to miss.
Last minute dash for Goraesa Eomuk just before boarding our flight
The Wife had a look in her eyes that hinted that she was thinking about buying one of everything. But she managed to restrain her impulses and only picked out three pieces.
Our 10 day Seoul itinerary and how much we spent
We spent a total of ₩5,450,000 for our entire trip. Here’s the cost breakdown by flight, hotel, food & drink, shopping, transport and other travel-related expenses.
And just like that, The Wife turned into a kkaennip addict
I can still remember the precise moment that it happened. We were having dinner at Hanilkwan and one of our banchan was a simple salad of shredded cabbage and kkaennip, tossed in a light vinaigrette.
StarHub Giga data roaming works like a charm
We used gigaRoam in Seoul and had no issues with mobile data access throughout our entire trip. It was easy to buy, seamless to activate and convenient to extend, making it the default choice for our future travels.
Lotte Mart Seoul Station is a Korean snack food paradise
Our extensive haul only lasted us a few weeks. We could have stretched it out a bit longer, but when faced with a convenient stockpile of addictive Korean snacks, the first thing that goes out the window is self-control.
